Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= sea green | |
= light grey green | |
= off white | |
= beige brown | |
= increase-round – read description in text |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Crisp Air Sweater |
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Knitted jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 207-14 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side. ELEVATION (back of neck): So the jumper is slightly higher at the back of the neck when working a round yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation; the neck will then be the same front and back. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side and knit 14-15-16-16-17-18 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 28-30-32-32-34-36 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 42-45-48-48-51-54 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 56-60-64-64-68-72 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit back to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 108 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 31) = 3.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/ double pointed needles. NECK: Cast on 100-104-108-112-116-124 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and sea green. Knit 1 round. Change to light grey green and work rib (knit 2/ purl 2) for 3 cm. Insert a marker here. THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now you can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation go straight to YOKE. YOKE: Work pattern A.1, AT THE SAME TIME, on each round marked with a star increase as follows: STAR-1: Increase 26-28-30-32-34-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 126-132-138-144-150-162 stitches (there is now room for 21-22-23-24-25-27 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! STAR-2: Increase 42-42-48-48-48-48 stitches evenly spaced = 168-174-186-192-198-210 stitches (there is now room for 28-29-31-32-33-35 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches). STAR-3: Increase 48-54-54-60-60-60 stitches evenly spaced = 216-228-240-252-258-270 stitches (there is now room for 36-38-40-42-43-45 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches). STAR-4: Increase 29-42-45-48-52-60 stitches evenly spaced = 245-270-285-300-310-330 stitches (there is now room for 49-54-57-60-62-66 repeats of A.1 with 5 stitches). STAR-5: Increase 27-34-43-44-50-54 stitches evenly spaced = 272-304-328-344-360-384 stitches (there is now room for 34-38-41-43-45-48 repeats of A.1 with 8 stitches). When there is 1 round left in the diagram the piece measures approx. 22 cm from the marker. Continue as follows in the different sizes: In size S skip the next section and continue from All sizes – below. Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Continue with pattern A.2. When the diagram has been completed in height the piece measures approx. 24 cm from the marker. Size M is now finished (unless it is shorter than 24 cm, in which case continue with stocking stitch and sea green to this measurement). In sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL continue with stocking stitch and sea green until the piece measures 26-28-30-32 cm from the marker, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 25-27-29-31 cm (from the marker), increase 0-12-20-28 stitches evenly spaced = 328-356-380-412 stitches. All sizes: The last round on the yoke is worked as follows: Work the first 40-44-47-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 80-88-94-104-114-126 stitches (= front piece), place the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 40-44-47-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. BODY: There are 176-192-208-228-252-276 stitches on the body. Insert a marker thread in each side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeves (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of the threads). In size S continue as described below, in sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL skip the next section and continue from all sizes below. Size S: Work pattern A.2 in the round over all stitches and until completed in 1 time in height. Then continue as described below. All sizes: Continue in the round with sea green and stocking stitch. When the piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 7 cm a total of 4 times = 192-208-224-244-268-292 stitches. When the piece measures 29 cm increase 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly spaced =228-248-268-292-320-348 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when casting off, if this is a problem. The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-72-80-84-88-92 stitches. In size S work pattern as described below; the other sizes are continued from section ALL SIZES below. Size S: Start the round before the 8 new stitches under the sleeve and work A.2 over each repeat of A.1 (from the yoke). When A.2 has been completed in height continue from ALL SIZES below. ALL SIZES: Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stocking stitch in the round with sea green. When the piece measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 11-14-17-18-19-20 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. When the sleeve measures 37-36-34-33-31-29 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), increase 6-8-10-8-10-8 stitches evenly spaced = 48-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when casting off, if this is a problem. The sleeve measures approx 41-40-38-37-35-33 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (27)
Pia wrote:
Specificerer lige mit spørsmål ,da jeg ikke forstår det tidligere svar. Når jeg strikker oppefra og skal slutte af med en rib forneden, skriver i i opskriften, at man skal tage masker ud inden ribben strikkes.. Men så bliver ribben jo større end selve trøjen, selvom man går en pind ned, er det for at de næsten går lige ned i stedet for indad i ribben?
29.12.2022 - 00:49DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pia, ja det stemmer, ribben skal ikke trække arbejdet sammen, den skal gå lige ned :)
04.01.2023 - 12:19Pia wrote:
Hvorfor tager man masker ud før ribben i stedet for ind, som på de fleste andre opskrifter?
08.12.2022 - 18:15DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pia. For å få en penere overgang mellom vrangbord og bol, økes det masker etter vrangborden og byttes til større pinne nr. Tidligere, da gjerne oppskrifter fra 80-tallet, skulle vrangborden være stram og bolen vid. Dette har forandret seg. mvh DROPS Design
12.12.2022 - 11:16Gasparetto wrote:
Bonjour J’ai fini le pull mais à l’usage il s’avère que le col devant est un peu haut et me gêne au niveau du cou. Y aurait il moyen de l’echancrer après coup? Merci
03.12.2022 - 17:25DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Gasparetto, vous pouvez peut-être défaire le col (en utilisant cette technique par ex; et en faisant plus de rangs raccourcis pour que l'encolure dos soit plus haute que l'encolure devant; n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance personnalisée complémentaire. Bon tricot!
06.12.2022 - 08:52Maren wrote:
Liebes Drops Team, ich stricke diesen Pulli mit großer Freude. Nun möchte mein Mann diesen Pulli als Jacke haben. Habt ihr eine Anleitung oder könnt mir eine für eine Jacke empfehlen wo ich dieses Norweger Muster verwenden kann? Ich brauche ja vermutlich einen anderen Schnitt und Größe und dann soll ja noch das Muster passen. Vielen herzlichen Dank.
27.11.2022 - 19:35DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Maren, hier finden Sie diese Jacke - und hier finden Sie Tips, um die Anleitung in eine Herrengröße umzurechnen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
28.11.2022 - 09:56Bri wrote:
Bonjour, je viens de finir le corps et mes côtés se plient vers l’extérieur en remontant !!!! Est-ce normal ?
17.01.2022 - 11:03DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Bri, ça arrive parfois, lavez simplement votre pull (respectez bien les consignes d'entretien) et faites le sécher bien à plat, avec des épingles si besoin, la bordure côtes devrait alors s'aplatir. Bon tricot!
17.01.2022 - 15:37May Isaac wrote:
Er det feil i oppskriten.?Stemmer ikke etter alle økningene, og en skal øke 20 masker i str, L.
10.01.2022 - 09:44Birgit Büscher wrote:
Guten Tag, Ich habe schon viele tolle Sachen nach ihren Anleitungen gestrickt, Danke für die tolle Seite! Kann ich aus diesem Pullii einen Rollkragenpullover machen, was muss ich beachten? Vielen Dank
30.10.2021 - 15:12DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Büscher, herzlichen Dank! Wahrscheinlich können Sie einen Rollkragen auch stricken - Sie können z.B. mit Hilfsfaden anschlagen (siehe Video) und dann sofort die Erhöhung stricken, ganz am Ende können Sie die Maschen auffassen und den Rollkragen stricken, so können Sie auch den Pullover anziehen und die Länge vom Kragen anpassen. Ihr DROPS Laden hat sicher noch andere Idée dazu. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
02.11.2021 - 13:51Cathy wrote:
I bought drops Karisma for this pattern but already after just knitting the collar I found it very itchy. What alternative do I have ? When I look at the yarn exchange they ask about the number of thread, what does it mean ?
14.10.2021 - 13:24DROPS Design answered:
Dear Cathy, click on the yarn converter to see the other alternatives, and contact your DROPS store for any information about exchange or advice for an alternative. Happy knitting!
14.10.2021 - 16:37Marlene wrote:
Is there a way I can print this pattern off on my computer?
01.05.2021 - 16:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marlene, you can easily print our patterns for free whenever you like - see symbol of printer (i.e. printer icon with word "Print") just under the header of pattern. Happy knitting!
02.05.2021 - 11:53Karin Andersen wrote:
Hej. Kan en opskrift som er beskrevet oppefra og ned, vendes så trøjen strikkes nedefra og op ? (Drops model 207-14) Mh. Karin
21.01.2021 - 10:05DROPS Design answered:
Hej Karin, ja absolut, du starter bare bagfra i opskriften og tager ud i stedet for at tage ind osv. God fornøjelse!
27.01.2021 - 14:21