-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K1, K1 from cable needle |
|
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K1, P1 from cable needle |
|
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K1 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Lakeside Sunset |
||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS jacket with cables in "Delight". Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 130-21 |
||||||||||||||||
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to waist): All dec are done from RS. Dec as follows after marker: K2 tog. Dec as follows before marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. DECREASE TIP 2: (applies to armholes and neckline): All dec are done from RS. Dec inside 3 sts in stockinette st at armhole, inside 12 sts in garter st at neckline on back piece and inside 12 sts in garter st + M.1 (= 20 sts) at the neckline on the front piece. Dec as follows after 3/12/20 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Dec as follows before 3/12/20 sts: K2 tog. INCREASE TIP: Inc by picking up 1 st between 2 sts from previous row and K this st twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 = 8 sts. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. BUTTON HOLES: Bind off for 4 button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = bind off 5th and 6th st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Bind off for button holes when piece measures: SIZE S: 9, 15, 21 and 27 cm / 3½",6",8¼" and 10⅝". SIZE M: 10, 16, 22 and 28 cm / 4",6¼",8¾" and 11". SIZE L: 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm / 4⅜",6¾",9" and 11⅜". SIZE XL: 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm / 4¾",7",9½" and 11¾". SIZE XXL: 13, 19, 25 and 31 cm / 5⅛",7½",9¾" and 12¼". SIZE XXXL: 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm / 5½",8",10¼" and 12½". -------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 94-104-114-126-140-154 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS, then continue working in stockinette st. Insert 2 markers in the piece, after 24-26-29-32-35-39 sts each side (= 46-52-56-62-70-76 sts between markers). When piece measures 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜", dec at each marker for waist. Dec after 1st marker and before 2nd marker - READ DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat the dec on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 84-94-104-116-130-144 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾", inc at markers - inc after 1st marker and before 2nd marker - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat the inc on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 94-104-114-126-140-154 sts. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼", bind off 4-5-6-8-10-12 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes. Continue to dec 1 st on every RS row - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - 5-7-8-10-13-15 times = 76-80-86-90-94-100 sts. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾", work 4 rows in garter st over the middle 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts (work rest of sts as before) then bind off the middle 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts for neckline and finish each part separately. Continue in stockinette st and 12 sts in garter st towards the neckline while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st for neckline on every RS row inside the 12 sts in garter st - READ DECREASE TIP 2 - a total of 2 times = 22-24-25-27-27-30 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜". LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 53-58-63-69-76-83 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side and 12 band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, work in stockinette st until 20 sts remain, PATTERN (= 8 sts) - see explanation above - and 12 sts in garter st. Continue in stockinette st and M.1 + 12 band sts in garter st towards mid front until finished measurements. Insert a marker after 24-26-29-32-35-39 sts from side. When piece measures 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜", dec before marker for waist - SEE DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat the dec on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 48-53-58-64-71-78 sts. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾", inc before marker - SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat the inc on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 53-58-63-69-76-83 sts. Read all of the following section before continuing! When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜", work with short rows 1 time over the 12 band sts only, beg from WS as follows: Work 12 sts in garter st, turn and work back over the 12 sts in garter st. On next row from RS, dec for neckline inside 12 band sts + M.1 (= 20 sts) - READ DECREASE TIP 2: Dec 1 st on every other row a total of 18 times and then 1 st on every 4th row a total of 4-4-6-6-8-8 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼", bind off and dec for armhole in the side as on back piece. After all dec for neckline and armhole are done, 22-24-25-27-27-30 sts remain on shoulder. Continue as before until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" - adjust after 1 whole repetition of M.1. Bind off. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work as left front piece but opposite. NOTE: Dec and inc for waist are done after marker and the short rows over band sts beg from RS. When piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm / 3½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛"-5½", bind off for first BUTTON HOLE - see explanation above! SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 56-58-62-64-68-70 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 9 cm / 3½", dec 10 sts evenly = 46-48-52-54-58-60 sts. When piece measures 15-15-15-15-12-11 cm / 6"-6"-6"-6"-4¾"-4⅜", inc 1 st each side. Repeat inc every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm / ¾"-¾"-¾"-½"-½"-½" a total of 15-16-16-18-19-20 times = 76-80-84-90-96-100 sts. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-45-43 cm / 19¾"-19¼"-19"-18½"-17¾"-17" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder width), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of row each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 5-6-8-9-12-15 times, then continue to bind off 2 sts each side until piece measures 57 cm / 22½", then bind off 3 sts 1 time each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 58 cm / 22¾". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams, set in sleeves and sew under arm and side seams in one, inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. |
||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (37)
Rita Goldenstein wrote:
Die letzte Reihe der Zeichenerklärung ist falsch: 1 M auf eine Zopfnadel __vor__ die Arbeit legen,........ nur so läuft die rechte Masche korrekt. Ich bitte um Überprüfung!
26.01.2021 - 18:28DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Goldenstein, stimmt ja, danke für den Hinweis, Zeichenerklärung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.01.2021 - 07:50Gail McHugh wrote:
Excellent thank you very much, l can now continue with confidence and thank you for your speedy replies.
11.02.2020 - 16:01Gail McHugh wrote:
Thanks for your quick reply l now understand that the Dec 3/12/20sts relates to different pieces of the garment but am still unsure where to apply them. On the back shoulder left side do l knit the 12 garter stitches and then Dec, or do I Dec anywhere within the 12 garter stitches?
11.02.2020 - 14:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hugh, on left shoulder back piece, you work from RS: 12 sts garter stitch, decrease and work row to the end. On right shoulder you will work from RS until 14 stitches remain, decrease 1 stitch and finish row with 12 sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!
11.02.2020 - 15:20Gail McHugh wrote:
Hi I seem to have got stuck on the back at the shoulders. The instructions say Dec l st for neckline on every right side row inside the 12 sts in garter st twice. But I don’t understand the Dec tip 2 which says Dec as follows after 3/12/20 sts. How do these numbers relate to the sts on the shoulders.
09.02.2020 - 18:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs McHugh, on back piece you work in stocking stitch with 12 sts in garter stitch towards neck and decrease inside these 12 stitches in garter stitch. When decreasing on armholes you decreased inside 3 sts in stcoking stitch and on front piece you will decrease inside 32 sts (= the 12 sts in garter st (front band) + M.1 (= 20 sts)). Happy knitting!
10.02.2020 - 09:42Heleen wrote:
Onderstaande vraag mag verwijderd worden.
24.12.2014 - 08:13Heleen wrote:
Moet je bij de voorpanden bij het minderen dit doen meteen voor/na de markeerdraad of moet je minderen aan de zijkanten van de panden? Dat laatste lijkt mij logischer om een mooie vorm te krijgen, maar in de beschrijving staat het anders.
23.12.2014 - 15:02DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Heleen. Je doet het meteen voor en na de markeerdraad en niet aan de zijkanten (lees ook TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN 1). Op deze manier krijg je ook een mooie taillevorm. Veel breiplezier verder.
23.12.2014 - 16:02Kim wrote:
Made this and am very pleased, one of my friends is going to make it for herself, it really is a nice pattern.
23.08.2014 - 21:34Julia wrote:
Decreasing for the arm holes.the pattern says dec on every row from rs .Does this mean dec only on the right side (which is every other row) or dec on the wrong side as well by knitting into the back of the stich?
05.02.2014 - 17:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Julia, decrease for armholes are done every row from RS, i.e. every other row. Happy knitting!
05.02.2014 - 18:07Margaret wrote:
Just finished this cardigan and I LOVE it! The lovely fitted shape, the sweet cable detail .. thank you Garnstudio for this great pattern.
27.10.2013 - 02:22Linda wrote:
I started this pattern and my "M.1" pattern did not come out right. I start the pattern from the bottom up and reversed the stitches on the right and wrong sides. Am I supposed to reverse the cable stitches also? Example: RS: sl 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K1, P1 from cable needle. On WS do I do the same or do I P1, K1? Thank you....:)
18.06.2013 - 20:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Linda, diagram is worked starting from corner at the bottom right towards the left from RS, then from WS from the left towards the right. 1st row (RS) = P3,slip 1st on cable needle behind piece,K1,K1 from cable needle,P3. 2nd row (WS) = K3,P2,K3.etc.. Do not hesitate to work a swatch with just a few sts to get used with that pattern. Happy knitting!
18.06.2013 - 23:13