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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
3.10 € /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 3.10 € /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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= Bottom of armhole sewn together: b to B |
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= stitches for left front shoulder (d) knitted up along left back shoulder (D), stitches for right front shoulder (e), knitted up along right back shoulder (E) |
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= knitting direction |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sunset & Sand |
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Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 245-16 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE: INCREASE TOWARDS THE LEFT AFTER MARKER: Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop. INCREASE TOWARDS THE RIGHT BEFORE MARKER: Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop. INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE: INCREASE TOWARDS THE LEFT AFTER MARKER: Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop. INCREASE TOWARDS THE RIGHT BEFORE MARKER: Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop. STRIPES BODY: Work stripes as follows: * 6 cm colour light beige, 6 cm colour coral *, work from *-* 2 more times. Finish the piece with colour coral. STRIPES SLEEVES: Work stripes as follows: 10 cm colour coral, 6 cm colour light beige, 6 cm colour coral, 6 cm colour light beige. Finish the sleeve with colour coral. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The top of the back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder for the front piece and increased for the neck, then the front piece is worked back and forth with circular needle until the armholes are finished. The front and back pieces are joined and the body continued in the round with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around each armhole, the sleeve cap worked back and forth before working the sleeves in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck is worked in the round to finish. BACK PIECE: Cast on 26-26-28-30-30-30 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk colour coral. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Insert 1 marker inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side. Allow the markers to follow you work onwards (inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side). Work stocking stitch back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row (from the right side) – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE RIGHT SIDE. On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE TIP FROM THE WRONG SIDE. Continue increasing from both the right and wrong side a total of 18-20-22-22-24-28 times = 62-66-72-74-78-86 stitches. The piece is now measured from here! When the piece measures 4-5-5-6-7-7 cm, work STRIPES BODY – read description above. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes until the piece measures 14-15-15-16-17-17 cm, measured along the armhole. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the front piece. FRONT PIECE: Start with left shoulder (when the garment is worn). Using 2 strands colour coral, knit up 18-20-22-22-24-28 stitches along the left shoulder on the back piece, inside the outermost stitch (i.e., knit up 1 stitch in every row from the top edge of the back piece). Work stocking stitch back and forth for 6 cm. Now increase stitches towards the neck, increasing after the 3 stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side. Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 22-24-26-26-28-32 stitches. Work 1 row from the wrong side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the right shoulder. Knit up 18-20-22-22-24-28 stitches inside the outermost stitches along the right shoulder on the back piece. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 6 cm. Now increase stitches towards the neck, increasing before the 3 stitches at the end of each row from the right side. Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 22-24-26-26-28-32 stitches. Work 1 row from the wrong side. Now work as follows from the right side: Stocking stitch over the 22-24-26-26-28-32 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 18-18-20-22-22-22 stitches for the neck, work stocking stitch over the 22-24-26-26-28-32 stitches from the left front piece = 62-66-72-74-78-86 stitches. Work stocking stitch until the piece measures 14-15-17-18-19-21 cm. Now work STRIPES BODY until the piece measures 24-25-27-28-29-31 cm, measured down the armhole. Finish after a row from the wrong side. The front and back pieces are now joined for the body. BODY: Work the 62-66-72-74-78-86 stitches from the front piece, cast on 4-4-4-8-12-12 stitches (= side), work stocking stitch over the 62-66-72-74-78-86 stitches from the back piece, cast on 4-4-4-8-12-12 stitches = 132-140-152-164-180-196 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round and continue the stripes until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, measured from the top of the shoulder on the front piece. Now divide for the split in each side: Place the 66-70-76-82-90-98 stitches on the back piece on a stitch holder and work the front piece. FRONT PIECE: Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 14-14-16-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 80-84-92-96-104-112 stitches. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 10 cm. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, measured from the top of the shoulder on the front piece. BACK PIECE: Place the stitches on circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way as the front piece. LEFT SLEEVE: Use circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands colour coral. Knit up from the right side 29-30-32-34-35-37 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 17-18-18-20-21-21 stitches from the shoulder down the back piece = 46-48-50-54-56-58 stitches round the armhole. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row – used to measure from. Work STRIPES SLEEVES – read description above, and stocking stitch back and forth for 2-2-2-3-5-6 cm. Now join the sleeve and continue in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-5-7 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-8-8-6-6-5½ cm a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times = 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-35-34-34-34-33 cm from the marker. There is 10 cm left; try the jumper on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 6-8-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly spaced = 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 46-45-44-44-44-43 cm from the marker. Work the other sleeve in the same way but knit up stitches in reverse, i.e., knit up 17-18-18-20-21-21 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the back piece to the shoulder, then 29-30-32-34-35-37 stitches from the shoulder and down the front piece. Sew the openings at the bottom of the armholes – see sketch. NECK: Start on one shoulder and knit up from the right side, inside 1 stitch, 68 to 80 stitches round the neck using short circular needle size 5 mm and 2 strands colour coral. The stitch count should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm. Cast off a little loosely. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (14)
Hello, thank you for the quick response. I have counted the amount of rows along the front piece of the armhole- it’s 38, so I thought I would have to pick around 38 stitches for each row. As I understand now I have to skip some in order to follow the size and have to pick only 29. Please let me know if I understood this correctly. Also to confirm - I do not have to pick stitches at the bottom of armhole, as it has to be sewed later to the sleeve when it’s finished? Thank you!
06.06.2024 - 13:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Viktoriia, yes, it is possible, that when picking up stitvhes at the side of a piece (at the edge), you don't have to pick up a stitch for each row, but leave out sime rows. Also, no, you do not have to pick up at the bottom of the armhole, that part of teh sleeve will be sewn in at the end. Happy Knitting!
06.06.2024 - 22:53Hi. I got a bit confused at the point when I started knitting sleeves. On the sketch the armhole is 19 cm for small size, so a total of 38cm. And according to the knitting tension it’s 16 rows for 10 cm, which means there should be around 68 stitches for the armholes. However the instructions say 29 stitches at the front and 17 stitches at the back. Which seems not enough… Could you please advise? PS so far it fits well and size seems right, it’s just the sleeves.
06.06.2024 - 00:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Viktoria, there are 19 cm x 2 = 38 cm for the armhole, and 14 cm / 24 cm (size S), along the 24 cm on the front piece you will pick up approx. 29 stitches (you need here tension in width, ie 12 sts = 10 cm) and along the 14 cm on the back piece you will pick up approx. 17 sts = 46 sts in total (38 cm x 1,2 tension = ca 46 sts). Happy knitting!
06.06.2024 - 07:58Hello, I am at the point of joining the front and back pieces and start working the body in the round. My question is does the front piece need to measure 27cm before or after finishing on ws and starting the join round on the right side. My pieces are now parallel (worked 1 sripe + 5 rows of main color) and I'm afraid if I add two rows of main color before joining the stripes won't be facing. Thanks for your help!
12.12.2023 - 13:45Be answered:
Sorry, you can delete my previous question, I figured it out.
12.12.2023 - 14:06Buongiorno io non uso i ferri circolari. Ho trovato dei bellissimi modelli di maglioni nel vostro sito ma non so come farli visto che usate solo ferri circolari. Non è possibile avere dei modelli con istruzioni e indicazioni per l'utilizzo dei ferri normali? Non capisco perchè utilizzate solo modelli per ferri circolari. grazie e fatemi sapere.
21.11.2023 - 10:06DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Laura, la maggior parte dei modelli DROPS prevede l'uso di ferri circolari perchè al di fuori dell'Italia si lavora con i ferri circolari. Sul nostro sito può trovare comunque tantissimi modelli lavorati in piano che può tranquillamente lavorare con i ferri normali. Buon lavoro!
22.11.2023 - 18:01Schöne Farbcombi
06.08.2023 - 13:35Just cozy
06.08.2023 - 10:19Stripey love
04.08.2023 - 23:50Featherweight
04.08.2023 - 19:03Christmas candy
03.08.2023 - 23:16Cozy pleasure 😁
03.08.2023 - 18:39